We've put together a list of our favorite hotels for you. Click here for Over U.S.$150, U.S.$100-U.S.$150, U.S.$50-U.S.$100 and Under U.S.$50.

OVER U.S.$150

Meridian Av. Atlântica 1020 Rio de Janiero 22012 Phone: 021/275-9922 or 021/541-6447	Copacabana/Leme
Of the leading Copacabana hotels, the 37-story Meridian is the closest to downtown, making it a favorite among business travelers. Service is efficient and the rooms are tastefully decorated in pastel tones with dark wood furniture. The hotel features a complete executive center, a VIP room for its business guests, and Le Saint Honoré restaurant. AE, DC, MC, V. 443 rooms, 53 suites.

Rio Palace Av. Atlântica 4240 Rio de Janiero 22070 Phone: 021/521-3232 Fax: 021/247-3582

Copacabana/Leme

This is recognized as the best hotel on Copacabana Beach---a case in studied elegance, from the marbled lobby to the antique Brazilian furnishings and colonial artwork that decorate the public areas and rooms. The Imperial Club offers business travelers a range of services, including bilingual secretaries and fax and telex machines. The hotel has a fine French restaurant, Le Pré Catelan, the Horse's Neck piano bar, and the Palace Club, a private nightclub with live Brazilian music. The building's H-shape gives all rooms views of either the sea or the mountains---or both. AE, DC, MC, V. 418 rooms and suites.

Caesar Park Av. Antônio Carlos Jobim 460 Rio de Janiero 22420 Phone: 021/287-3122 or 800/228-3000 in the U.S. Fax: 021/247-7975

Ipanema

Since its opening in 1978, this beachfront hotel has established itself as a favorite of business travelers, celebrities, and heads of state, who appreciate its impeccable service. The lobby reflects the hushed elegance of the hotel with its marble walls, thick carpeting, and rosewood furnishings topped by fresh flowers. The rooms are decorated in soft tones of rose, beige, blue, and gray. To assist business guests, the hotel provides secretarial services, as well as fax machines and microcomputers for use in guest rooms. The Caesar Park boasts Rio's finest Japanese restaurant, the Mariko, and an acclaimed Saturday feijoada. AE, DC, MC, V. 184 rooms, 37 suites.

Inter-Continental Rio Av. Prefeito Mendes de Morais 222 Rio de Janiero 22600 Phone: 021/322-2200 or 800/327-0200 in the U.S. Fax: 021/322-5500

Sao Conrado

This member of the respected Inter-Continental chain is one of only two resort hotels in the city. It is in the São Conrado Beach neighborhood right next door to the Gávea Golf and Country Club. Standing alone on its own slice of beachfront, the hotel gives one a pleasant feeling of isolation. Attractions include one of Rio's smartest cocktail lounges, a lively discotheque, the Monseigneur restaurant, a business center, convention facilities, and access to two nearby golf courses. Every room has an original tapestry done by a Brazilian artist and a balcony overlooking the ocean. AE, DC, MC, V. 483 rooms and suites.

Sheraton Rio Hotel & Towers Av. Niemeyer 121 Rio de Janiero 22450 Phone: 021/274-1122 or 800/325-3535 in the U.S. Fax: 021/239-5643

Vidigal

Built so that it dominates Vidigal Beach, between Ipanema and São Conrado, this is the only hotel in Rio that is directly on the beach. Guest rooms are decorated in soft, soothing colors, and all have beach views. Four floors (97 rooms) are reserved for business travelers, who receive special treatment. Called the Towers, this section of the hotel has its own check-in, a private lounge, a business center, a buffet breakfast, and around-the-clock butler service. The Sheraton is home to Valentino's, a favorite with Rio high society, and to the lively beat of Brazilian music at the One Twenty One Lounge. AE, DC, MC, V. 561 rooms, 22 suites.

U.S.$100-U.S.$150

Leme Palace Av. Atlântica 656 Rio de Janiero 22010 Phone: 021/275-8080	Copacabana/Leme
Large rooms and a quiet beachfront location have made Leme Palace the hotel of choice with frequent Rio visitors. Built in 1964, it was partially remodeled in 1987 and 1988 but still retains its original subdued, conservative air. AE, DC, MC, V. 168 rooms, 26 suites.

Miramar Palace Av. Atlântica 3668 Rio de Janiero 22010 Phone: 021/287-6348

Copacabana/Leme

One of Rio's veteran hotels, the Miramar is a satisfying mix of the old and the new. The beachfront hotel's rooms are among the largest in Rio, and the public areas are dominated by classic touches, from the Carrara marble floor of the lobby to the spectacular glass chandeliers that light the two restaurants. The hotel's 16th-floor bar is notable for its unobstructed view of the entire sweep of Copacabana; after 6 PM live Brazilian music adds a special touch of romance to the view. AE, DC, MC, V. 133 rooms, 11 suites.

Everest Rio Rua Prudente de Morais 1117 Rio de Janiero 22420 Phone: 021/287-8282 Fax: 021/521-3198

Ipanema

Offering impeccable service and one of Rio's finest rooftop views (a postcard shot of Corcovado and the lagoon), this hotel is a favorite with those who know the ins and outs of Rio's hotels. Back rooms offer sea views, and front rooms above the 14th floor look out on Corcovado and the lagoon. A block away from Ipanema Beach, the hotel is in the heart of the neighborhood's premier shopping and dining area. AE, DC, MC, V. 159 rooms, 11 suites.

U.S.$50-U.S.$100

Ouro Verde Av. Atlântica 1456 Rio de Janiero 22041 Phone: 021/542-1887 Fax: 021/542-4597

Copacabana/Leme

One of only a handful of Rio hotels aimed at the "discriminating traveler," this has been a preferred lodging for visiting business people for three decades. The hotel is famed for its efficient, personalized service. Tasteful Brazilian colonial decor and dark wood furniture are right in step with the hotel's emphasis on quality and graciousness. All front rooms face the beach, and back rooms from the 6th to 12th floors have a view of Corcovado. A lively alfresco bar plus one of Rio's finest restaurants, the namesake Ouro Verde, attract patrons into the morning hours. AE, DC, MC, V. 61 rooms, 5 suites.

UNDER U.S.$50

Arpoador Inn Rua Francisco Otaviano 177 Rio de Janiero 22080 Phone: 021/247-6090

Ipanema

This pocket-size hotel occupies one of Rio's more privileged locations, a stretch of beach known as Arpoador at the Copacabana end of Ipanema. Here surfers ride the waves and pedestrians rule the roadway---a traffic-free street that gives the hotel's guests direct access to the beach. Simple but comfortable, the hotel is reasonably priced considering the location. At sunset the view from the rocks that mark the end of the beach is considered one of the most beautiful in Rio. Both sights are visible from the hotel's back rooms. Avoid the front rooms, which face a noisy street. AE, DC, MC, V. 46 rooms, 2 suites.

Ipanema Inn Rua Maria Quitéria 27 Rio de Janiero 22410 Phone: 021/287-6092	Ipanema
This small, no-frills hotel was built for tourists who want to stay in Ipanema but have no interest in paying the high prices of a beachfront hotel. To that end, it has been a complete success. Just a half block from the beach, it is convenient not only for sun and water worshipers but also for those seeking to explore Ipanema's varied nightlife. AE, DC, MC, V. 56 rooms.

ARRIVING & DEPARTING

By Air All international flights, and most domestic flights, arrive and depart from the Galeão International Airport. The airport is approximately 45 minutes from the beach area where most of Rio's hotels are located and is served by most major airlines. The Santos Dumont Airport, just outside downtown Rio, serves the Rio-São Paulo air shuttle and a few air-taxi firms. Santos Dumont is 20 minutes from the beaches and walking distance from downtown. CARRIERS Major U.S. carriers serving Rio include American Airlines (tel. 800/433-7300) and United Airlines (tel. 800/538-2929). Transbrasil (tel. 800/872-3153) has service from Miami and New York. Varig (tel. 800/468-2744), Brazil's largest international carrier, flies from Chicago, Los Angeles, Miami, New York, and San Francisco. Vasp (tel. 800/732-8271) flies to Rio from Miami, New York, and Los Angeles. Flying time from New York to Rio is 9 hours; from Miami, 7 hours. Flights from Los Angeles, routed through Miami, take about 12 hours. BETWEEN THE AIRPORT AND TOWN Exiting Galeão can be confusing. Taxi drivers will assault you, but to be safe, stick to either the special airport taxis or buses. If you come to Rio from São Paulo via the air shuttle, you land at Rio's downtown Santos Dumont Airport. Here the same transportation options exist as at the international airport. Again, stick to the special buses, the airport taxis, or the radio cabs, and avoid the yellow city cabs. By Bus Air-conditioned buses park curbside outside customs; for about $4 they will take you to the beaches where the majority of Rio's hotels are located. The trip takes about an hour, and drivers follow the beachfront drives, stopping at all hotels. If you are going to a hotel inland from the beach the driver will stop at the nearest corner (but remember, you'll have to handle your own luggage). Buses leave from the airport every half hour from 5:20 AM to 11 PM. Buses to the airport leave from the Hotel Nacional in São Conrado every half hour from 6:30 AM to 11 PM; pick-up times at other hotels vary, so ask the concierge or at the front desk where you're staying. By Taxi Special airport taxis are operated by two firms, Transcoopass (tel. 021/270-4888) and Cootramo (tel. 021/270-1442), both of which have booths in the arrival area of the airport. Fares to all parts of Rio are posted at the booths, and you pay in advance in the range of $20-$30. Also trustworthy are the white radio taxis parked in the same area, which charge on the average 20% less than the special airport cabs. Avoid all yellow taxis. By Car For travelers arriving at Galeão Airport, take the Airport Expressway, known in Portuguese as the Linha Vermelha, to the beach area. This expressway takes you through two tunnels and into the Lagoa neighborhood. Exit on Avenida Epitácio Pessoa, the winding street that circles the lagoon. To reach Copacabana, exit again at Avenida Henrique Dodsworth (known popularly as the Corte do Cantagalo). For Ipanema and Leblon, there are several exits beginning with Rua Maria Quitéria.

By Bus Regular, generally good bus service is available to and from Rio. Long-distance buses leave from the Rodoviária Novo Rio station (Avenida Francisco Bicalho 1, São Cristóvão, tel. 021/291-5151), near the port area. Any local bus marked "rodoviária" will take you to the bus station. Tickets can be purchased at the depot or, for some destinations, from a travel agent. Buses also leave from the more conveniently located Menezes Cortes terminal (Rua São José 35, Centro, tel. 021/242-5414), near Praça XV downtown.

By Car Travelers arriving by car from São Paulo and Brasília will enter Avenida Brasil, which connects directly with the downtown area's beachside drive, Avenida Infante Dom Henrique, known popularly as the Atêrro. This expressway runs along Rio's Guanabara Bay and passes through the Copacabana Tunnel. On the far side of the tunnel is the beach neighborhood of Copacabana, site of most of Rio's hotels. The beachside street here is called Avenida Atlântica, and it continues into the neighborhoods of Ipanema and Leblon along Avenidas Antônio Carlos Jobim (Ipanema) and Delfim Moreira (Leblon). Some distances: Rio-São Paulo, 429 kilometers (266 miles); Rio-Brasília, 1,150 kilometers (714 miles); Rio-Belém, 3,250 kilometers (2,018 miles).

BUSINESS HOURS

Stores generally open at 9 and close at 6:30 during the week and at 1 PM on Saturday. Shopping malls are open 10 AM to 10 PM weekdays and until 6 PM on Saturday. All stores are closed on Sunday, although newsstands and convenience stores that stay open on Sunday are beginning to appear. The business day generally begins at 9 and ends at 6, although punctuality is not a Brazilian trait. Stores and offices may open later and frequently stay open until the last customer leaves. Banks are open weekdays 10-4:30. Churches are typically open throughout the day, but museum hours vary considerably. Be sure to check in advance. National Holidays New Year's Day (Jan. 1); Epiphany (Jan. 6); Carnival, the week preceding Ash Wednesday (Feb. 12); Good Friday (Mar. 28); Easter (Mar. 30); Tiradentes Day (Apr. 21); Labor Day (May 1); Corpus Christi (May 27); Independence Day (Sept. 7); Our Lady of Aparecida Day (Oct. 12); All Souls' Day (Nov. 2); Declaration of the Republic Day (Nov. 15); Christmas (Dec. 25).

CUSTOMS & DUTIES

Former strict import controls have been substantially liberalized as part of the Brazilian government's efforts to open the nation's economy to foreign competition. In addition to personal items, visitors are now permitted to bring in duty-free up to $500 worth of gifts purchased abroad. An additional $500 worth of gifts, including alcoholic beverages, may be purchased at the airport duty-free shops.

EMERGENCIES

The police emergency number is 190. Multilingual operators should be on duty. Consulates United States: Av. Presidente Wilson 147, tel. 021/292-7117. Canada: Rua Lauro Müller 116, Room 1104, tel. 021/542-7593. United Kingdom: Praia do Flamengo 284, 2nd Floor, tel. 021/552-1422.

GETTING AROUND

Overview Getting around in Rio can be a colossal headache, especially during the hot summer months. The infamous Carioca traffic jam, which can occur at any time of day, leaves exasperated motorists pounding their car horns in the midst of 90° heat. Parking is another major problem. Rio has few parking garages, which results in drivers leaving their vehicles anywhere they will fit, including sidewalks.

By Car Driving in Rio is not recommended. The Carioca flair for driving is usually enough to leave most tourists shaking in their shoes. In addition, there are the traffic jams and the endless confusion of the city's streets, not all of which have street signs. Brazilians drive on the right side of the road, and in general, traffic laws are the same as in the United States. The use of seat belts is mandatory. The national speed limit is 80 kph (48 mph) but is seldom observed or enforced. If you wish to have an automobile without the headache of having to drive it, hire a car and driver. The firm Transcoopass (tel. 021/270-4888) will supply both for $70 for three hours. REQUIREMENTS U.S. driver's licenses are accepted in Brazil in theory, but police, particularly highway police, have been known to invent violations in order to shake down drivers for bribes. It is therefore recommended to have an international driver's license, which is seldom challenged. CAR RENTAL Major car-rental companies represented in Rio include Alamo (tel. 800/327-9633, 0800/272-2000 in the United Kingdom); Avis (tel. 800/331-1084, 800/879-2847 in Canada); Budget (tel. 800/527-0700, 0800/181-181 in the United Kingdom); Hertz (tel. 800/654-3001, 800/263-0600 in Canada, 0181/679-1799 in the United Kingdom); and National (sometimes known as Europcar InterRent outside North America; tel. 800/227-3876, 0181/950-5050 in the United Kingdom). EMERGENCY ASSISTANCE The Automobile Club of Brazil (Automóvel Club do Brasil; Rua do Passeio 90, Rio de Janeiro, RJ, tel. 021/297-4455) provides emergency assistance to motorists. The club services members of foreign automobile clubs, but will not provide assistance to nonmembers. GASOLINE Gasoline costs around 65¢ a liter ($2.40 a gallon). Unleaded gasoline is called especial and carries the same price. Brazil also has an extensive fleet of ethanol-powered cars. Ethanol fuel is sold at all gas stations and costs 50¢ a liter ($1.90 a gallon). Although ethanol fuel is less expensive, alcohol cars get lower gas mileage, so they have no advantage over gasoline-powered automobiles. Gas stations are plentiful, and many are open 24 hours a day. PARKING Finding a parking space in Rio is a major task. The best option is to find a parking garage and leave your car with the attendant. Should you find a parking space on the street, you will probably have to pay a parking fee. Because of Brazil's rampant inflation, which made the use of coins virtually impossible, there are no parking meters. There is instead a system involving parking coupons, which are purchased either from uniformed street parking attendants or at newsstands. Each coupon is good for two hours. No-parking zones are marked by a capital letter E that is crossed out (the E stands for estacionamento, which means parking). These zones are more often than not filled with cars, which are rarely bothered by the police.

By Mass Transit BUS Local buses in Rio are inexpensive and will take you anywhere you want to go, but for tourists there are definite liabilities. The principal one is the threat of being robbed. You enter a Rio bus at the rear and exit at the front, paying in the middle when you pass through a turnstile. Thieves often pick your pocket or grab your wallet while you fumble to pay the man at the turnstile; then they either keep a low profile and stay behind you (exiting soon after you pass through the turnstile) or they push their way through the turnstile before you do, signal the bus to stop, and get off before you even sit down. To avoid being robbed, have your fare in your hand when you go to the turnstile and use coins (most fares are in the range of 40¢). Keep a low profile--don't wave your money around or shout to your friends in English, making yourself a target. Also, should you be victimized, never react. Many of these thieves are armed. Most hotels recommend that their guests avoid city buses, with two exceptions: the safer frescão and jardineira bus lines. The air-conditioned frescão buses provide transportation between the beaches, downtown, and Rio's two airports. The standard fare is about $4. These vehicles, which look like highway buses, stop at regular bus stops but also may be flagged down wherever you see them. Also recommended are the jardineira buses, open-sided vehicles that follow the beach drive from Copacabana to São Conrado and also take passengers to the Barra da Tijuca neighborhood. Fares are about 40¢, and white posts along the street mark jardineira bus stops. These buses, which look like old-fashioned streetcars, were introduced specifically for tourists and have become a major hit. They offer excellent views of the scenery and drive slowly along the beach avenue, a welcome relief to anyone who has ridden the regular city buses, whose drivers are considered the city's most reckless. METRO Rio's metrô system operates Monday through Saturday 6 AM to 11 PM. Unfortunately, it is not yet finished. The part that is completed, though, offers the fastest and most comfortable transportation in the city. In the stations and in each car are maps showing the subway stops. A single metrô ticket costs 37¢, a double costs 66¢. Combination metrô-bus tickets allow you to ride special buses to and from the Botafogo station: The M-21 runs to Leblon via Jardim Botânico and Jóquei, while the M-22 goes to Leblon by way of Túnel Velho, Copacabana, and Ipanema.

By Taxi Taxis are plentiful in Rio and are the most convenient mode of transportation available to tourists. Dealing with cab drivers, however, is not always a pleasant experience. Few of them speak English, and most will attempt to increase the fare for tourists. Taxis are required to post a chart noting the current fares on the inside of the left rear window. The driver may try to tell you that the chart is out of date. Don't believe it. Also, beware of the meter itself. When the driver resets the meter he raises a flag, which will have either the number one or two on it (on digital meters the numbers one and two appear in red). Number two means 20% more but can only be used in certain circumstances: between 10 PM and 6 AM, on Sundays and holidays, during the month of December, in the neighborhoods of São Conrado and Barra da Tijuca, or when climbing steep hills. In most cases, it should be on number one. Cabbies also like to tell tourists that the number two means double the fare. Not true. To avoid hassle, ask your hotel to call a radio cab or use one of the taxis that routinely serve hotel guests. Radio cabs charge 30% more but are honest, reliable, and usually air-conditioned. Other cabs working with the hotels will also charge more, normally a fixed fee explained before you leave.

HEALTH

No vaccinations are required to enter Brazil. In 1992, the Amazon region and the northeast coast were hit by an outbreak of cholera that had spread to Brazil from Peru. The disease has since reached Rio, but as of early 1995, the total number of recorded cases throughout Brazil was 50,000 out of the nation's total population of 146 million. Nearly all of the known cases of cholera have occurred either in rural areas or urban slums, where sanitary conditions are precarious. There is no effective vaccine for cholera, a disease marked by severe diarrhea that is contracted primarily through contact with contaminated water or food. The chances of a tourist coming down with cholera are extremely limited, but to be safe, observe the following precautions: Do not drink water anywhere unless it is bottled mineral water. Do not drink beverages with ice made from tap water. Make sure that the fresh fruit you eat is peeled and that seafood (particularly in cold seafood salads) and vegetables are thoroughly cooked. Avoid all food and beverages from street vendors. To be safe, you should avoid fruits and vegetables unless you are certain they have been properly cleaned or cooked. For further information on cholera, contact the U.S. Department of Health and Human Services, tel. 404/332-4559.

LANGUAGE

The language in Brazil is Portuguese, not Spanish. Although the two languages are distinct, common origins mean that many words are similar, and fluent speakers of Spanish will be able to make themselves understood. English is widely spoken among educated Brazilians and representatives of the tourist trade. In all hotels, someone on the staff will speak English, and in the better hotels, most of the staff will be at least able to answer basic questions. In restaurants, waiters will probably have only a smattering of English but maître d's will be able to speak well. Travel agencies and tour operators all employ bilingual staff. Taxi drivers, however, will rarely speak any English, and shop vendors outside fashionable malls in large cities usually know very little. In Rio, tourists have little difficulty in finding someone who speaks English to help them.

MAIL

Post offices are called correios, and branches are marked by the name and a logo that looks somewhat like two interlocked fingers; most are open weekdays 8-5 and Saturday until noon. Mailboxes are small yellow boxes, marked "correios," that sit atop metal pedestals on street corners. Sending Mail Home An airmail letter to the United States and most parts of Europe, including the United Kingdom, costs approximately $1. Aerograms and postcards cost the same. Airmail takes at least five days to reach the United States from Rio. Brazil has both national and international express mail service, the price of which varies according to the weight of the package and the destination. International express mail companies operating out of Brazil include Federal Express and DHL. Objects of value--especially currency, checks, or credit cards--should never be sent through the mail. Receiving Mail Mail can be addressed to "poste restante" and sent to any major post office. The address must include the code for that particular branch. American Express will hold mail for its cardholders. Send it to American Express do Brazil S/A Turismo, Hotel Copacabana Palace, Ave. Atlantica, 1.702/Loja 8, 22021-000.

MONEY

In July 1994, Brazil underwent a currency reform with the replacement of the cruzeiro real (CR$) with a new currency, the real (R$); plural: reais. The reform was made necessary by chronic high inflation, which had rendered previous currencies increasingly worthless. The new currency's bills and coins completely replaced its predecessor's, so don't accept any money denominated in cruzeiros or cruzeiros reais. There are 100 cents (centavos) to each real. The lowest value of the new currency system is 1 cent. There are notes worth 1, 5, 10, 50, and 100 reais (R$1, R$5, R$10, R$50, and R$100), together with coins worth 1, 5, 10, 25, and 50 centavos, as well as 1 real. Changing Money Brazil has three different exchange rates, all floating and thus subject to daily variation. As a tourist, the rate you will most often get is the tourism exchange rate (câmbio turismo), used by hotels and credit card companies. For an average day in Rio, a good strategy is to convert up to $100 into reais before leaving your hotel, more if you are planning on a big meal. This provides sufficient cash for most of the day's expenses, such as taxis and small purchases and snacks, and saves the trouble of haggling over the exchange rate with taxi drivers and restaurant managers, who often try to take advantage of tourists. Forms of Payment Traveler's checks (well-known names are best), dollars in cash, credit cards, and, more rarely, personal checks (in dollars) are all accepted in Rio, albeit at slightly varying exchange rates. You would do well to take your money in some of each of these forms. Traveler's checks are safest, of course, especially given the dangers you may face in parts of Rio, where poverty often drives crime against tourists. These can easily be exchanged at the tourism rate for reais at hotels, banks, officially authorized casas de câmbio (exchange houses), travel agencies, and shops in shopping malls or those catering to tourists (many smaller tradesmen are at a total loss when faced with traveler's checks or even cash dollars). The rate for traveler's checks is lower than that for cash, and hotels often change them at a rate that is lower than that available at banks or casas de câmbio. You will need your passport to change dollars at the tourist rate. Top restaurants, hotels, and shops accept major international credit cards. Credit cards can be used to pay hotel bills, but ask first if there is a discount for cash. You should try to bargain hard for a cash-on-the-barrel discount, then pay in local currency. Most gas stations do not take credit cards. Personal checks are a good last resort for luxury items (such as jewelry) or when an unexpected expense is incurred. Some hotels will accept personal checks from guests. These are usually exchanged on presentation of a passport, at the cash tourism or parallel rate, and only if the vendor has access to a U.S. bank account (which is increasingly common). Costs Brazil is far from the bargain destination it once was. Prices in Rio and other large cities, though, are still below prices for the same goods and services in comparable cities in the United States, Europe, and Asia. Top hotels in Rio go for more than $200 a night, but quality restaurants are surprisingly moderate, seldom more than $30 a person. Quality declines, often sharply, with lower prices. Fast-food outlets are now arriving, led by McDonald's and Pizza Hut, with prices at roughly the same level as in the United States. Taxis, city buses, subways, and long-distance buses are all inexpensive. Plane fares, however, are definitely not: The round-trip airfare from Rio to São Paulo is $325, for example. Many restaurants offer a special fixed-price menu, but in all instances an à la carte menu is also available. Every restaurant includes a cover charge for the bread and other appetizers placed on the table, and a 10% service charge is added to the final bill. It is customary to leave an additional 5% tip.

PACKING

If you're doing business in Rio, you will need the same business attire you would wear in U.S. and European cities: for men, suits and ties, and for women, suits for day wear and cocktail dresses or other suitable dinner clothes. For sightseeing and leisure, casual clothing and good walking shoes are both desirable and appropriate. Formal clothes are rarely required, even for evenings. With a few fancier exceptions, dress in Rio's eateries is almost always casual. For beach vacations, you'll need lightweight sportswear, a bathing suit, a sun hat, and sunscreen.

PASSPORTS & VISAS

All U.S., Canadian, and British citizens need a valid passport to enter South American countries. British citizens need only a passport, but U.S. and Canadian visitors are required to obtain a tourist visa, valid for 90 days from its date of issuance, before arriving in Brazil. Apply either in person or through the mail to the nearest Brazilian consulate or embassy in the United States or in Canada. Submit a current passport (which must be valid for at least six months beyond your departure date), a photocopy of a round-trip ticket, and a 2-by-2-inch passport photograph with your application. For U.S. visitors, there's a $10 fee when applying by proxy or by mail, no charge in person; Canadians pay C$64 in person, C$80 by proxy or by mail. Consulates United States: Av. Presidente Wilson 147, tel. 021/292-7117. Canada: Rua Lauro Müller 116, Room 1104, tel. 021/542-7593. United Kingdom: Praia do Flamengo 284, 2nd Floor, tel. 021/552-1422.

SAFETY

Better safe than sorry should be your motto while in Rio. Although not every tourist in Rio is a crime victim, petty theft is an always-present threat, so take precautions. If you are victimized, the police emergency number is 190. Multilingual operators should be on duty. Most crimes involving tourists occur in public areas where there are large numbers of people, particularly on beaches, crowded sidewalks, and city buses. Pickpockets, usually children, work in groups. One will distract their victim while another grabs a wallet, bag, or camera. Be particularly wary of children who suddenly thrust themselves in front of you and ask for money or offer to shine your shoes. Another member of the gang may strike from behind, grab your valuables and disappear into the crowd. Do not pursue or attempt to stop one of these robbers--many of them are armed and can be dangerous. Leave valuables in your hotel room or safe. Don't be ostentatious in your dress, and don't wear expensive jewelry or watches. Keep cameras out of sight in bags. Don't walk alone at night on the beach. Be aware of Rio's hillside shantytowns, which in some cases are close to hotels and tourist attractions; don't walk in front of them. If at all possible don't take city buses except for the air-conditioned frescão buses or the open-sided jardineiras. In particular avoid the Santa Teresa streetcar and the 553 bus around the Inter-Continental and Nacional hotels. Also, don't get involved with drugs. Penalties in Brazil for possession of drugs are severe, and dealers are the worst of the worst. Although women are gradually assuming a more important role in the nation's job force, the macho complex is still a strong force in Brazilian culture. Brazilian women rarely travel alone, especially young women. In Rio, the sight of women alone at night in restaurants or bars is more common today than in the past, but it is still liable to attract attention.

SIGHTSEEING TOURS

Boat Tours Boat tours are available to nearby islands. The tropical-islands tours depart from the fishing village of Itacuruçá, about 90 minutes by car from Rio. Brazilian schooners, saveiros, are used, and the daylong trips include lunch and time for swimming at some of the beautiful deserted beaches on the 36 islands of Sepetiba Bay. The trips are offered by Rio-based operators; the two best are run by Itacuruçá Turismo (tel. 021/259-2599) and Gray Line (Rio Sheraton Hotel, Avenida Niemeyer 121, Vidigal, tel. 021/274-7146). The cost is about $36 and includes ground transportation to Itacuruçá. Bus Tours Gray Line (tel. 021/274-7146) excels in transportation and in tour guides. Their guides are superb and will speak your language. The tours available include the following: Sugarloaf and the city (4 hours, $30); Corcovado and the Tijuca Forest (4 hours, $20); Rio by night (6 hours, $50); helicopter tour (30 minutes, $75); Petrópolis (6 hours, $20). Personal and Special-Interest Tours

TELEPHONES

The country code for Brazil is 55; the area code for Rio is 21. Local and Long-Distance Calls All parts of Brazil are serviced by Embratel, the national telephone company. Public phones are everywhere and are called orelhões (big ears). These are yellow with the blue phone company logo for local calls or solid blue for calls between cities (interurbana). To use the public phones, you must buy tokens, called fichas, at newsstands or phone company stations. Local fichas, which are good for three minutes, cost the equivalent of 8¢; long-distance tokens cost about 30¢ and last 18 seconds. It is wise to buy several at a time so that you can insert them in advance and avoid getting cut off. A three-minute call from Rio to São Paulo requires 10 long-distance tokens. Unused fichas are returned when you hang up. Rates double during peak hours (9 AM-noon and 2-6 PM). The lowest rates are available after 11 PM. Although public phones are visible on every street corner, vandalism is on the increase in Rio. As a result, you may have to try several phones before you find one that is working. Commercial establishments do not usually have public phones, although a bar, restaurant, or drugstore will probably allow you to use their private phone if you are a customer. Otherwise, you may be refused or be required to pay to use the phone. Phone company stations are found at the airport, many bus stations, and in downtown neighborhoods. At these you can pay in cash after making the call. International credit cards are not accepted. For local directory assistance, dial 102. For directory assistance in another Brazilian city, dial the area code of that city plus 121. International Calls International calls from Brazil are extremely expensive, double the international rates in the United States. Hotels also add a surcharge, increasing this cost. For international phone calls with the assistance of the operator, dial 000111. For international information, dial 000333. To dial direct, dial 00 plus the country code, the area code of the city you are calling, and then the number. Collect international calls can be made from any public phone either by dialing 107 and then asking for an international operator, or by dialing 000107 from a blue public phone. To pay American long-distance rates and deal with American operators, AT&T, MCI, and Sprint cardholders can dial direct to a U.S. operator from any phone in Brazil. To reach an AT&T operator, dial 000-8010. For MCI, call 000-8012. For Sprint, dial 000-8016.

TIPPING

At restaurants that levy a 10% service charge, it is customary to give the waiter a 5% tip in addition to the service charge included on the check. If there is no service charge, leave a 15% tip. In deluxe hotels, tip porters 50¢ per bag, chambermaids 50¢ per day, $1 for room and valet service. Tips for doormen and concierge vary and depend primarily on the services provided. A good tip would be $10 or higher, average $5. For moderate and inexpensive hotels, tips tend to be minimal. At this level, salaries are so low that virtually anything is well received. If a taxi driver helps you with your luggage, a per bag charge of about 35¢ is levied in addition to the fare. In general, tip taxi drivers 10% of the fare. At the barber shop or beauty parlor, a 10%-20% tip is expected. If a service station attendant does anything beyond filling up the gas tank, leave him a small tip of a nickel or dime. Tipping in bars and cafés follows the rules of restaurants, although at outdoor bars Brazilians rarely leave a tip if they have had no more than a soft drink or beer. In general, tip washroom attendants and shoe-shine boys about one-third what you would tip at home. At airports and at train and bus stations, tip the last porter who puts your bags into the cab (50¢ a bag at airports, 25¢ a bag at bus and train stations).

VISITOR INFORMATION

Tourist Offices IN RIO The Rio de Janeiro city tourism department, Riotur (021/297-7117), is at Rua da Assembléia 10, downtown, near Praça XV Square. In addition, Riotur has information booths at the Sugarloaf cable car station (Av. Pasteur 520, Urca, open 8-8), Marinha da Glória (Atêrro do Flamengo, Glória, tel. 021/205-6447, open 8-5), and the Rodoviária Novo Rio (the main bus depot at Av. Francisco Bicalho 1, São Cristóvão, tel. 021/291-5151, open 6 AM-midnight). The Rio de Janeiro state tourism board, Turisrio, is also downtown at Rua da Assembléia 10, 7th and 8th Floors. For information call 021/531-1922 weekdays 9-6. Brazil's national tourism board, Embratur, is headquartered in Rio near the Túnel Rebouças (inconveniently far from beach neighborhoods and hotels) at Rua Mariz e Barros 13, Praça da Bandeira, tel. 021/273-2212. IN THE U.S. Brazilian Travel Service (2441 Janin Way, Solvang, CA 93463, tel. 805/688-2441 or 800/544-5503, fax 805/688-1021).

WHEN TO GO

The high tourism season runs from November to April, although there are festivals, special events, and sporting attractions year-round. Carnival, the year's principal festival, occurs during the four days preceding Ash Wednesday, which usually falls in February but can occur in March. For top hotels in Rio, one of the two leading Carnival cities, you must make reservations a year in advance. Hotel rates go up on the average 20% for Carnival, and you should also expect to pay more for taxis, up to double regular fares. In Rio, spontaneous groups of dancers parade across streets in the city's south zone on a regular basis. Not as well known outside Brazil but equally impressive is Rio's New Year's Eve celebration. More than a million people gather around the crescent curve of Copacabana beach for a massive fireworks display. In the hours preceding midnight, the beach is alive with the throbbing of drums as followers of Brazil's African religious cult Umbanba conduct ceremonies to honor the sea goddess Iemanjá. At the stroke of midnight, the white-clad faithful rush to the water's edge and throw in their offerings to the goddess, culminating in a unique spectacle. As with Carnival, Rio's better hotels usually fill up for New Year's Eve, especially those overlooking Copacabana beach. To ensure a room, book at least six months in advance. Seasons below the Equator are the reverse of the north--summer in Brazil runs from December to March and winter from June to September. The rainy season occurs during the summer months, but this is rarely a nuisance. Showers can be torrential but usually last no more than an hour or two, after which the sun reappears. Prices invariably are higher during the high season (Brazilian summer). If you are looking for a bargain, stick to the off-season (from May to October). In Rio, these months offer the added attraction of relief from the often oppressive summer heat, although the temperature can drop to uncomfortable levels for swimming in June through August. Climate Rio de Janeiro is on the Tropic of Capricorn, and its climate is just that--tropical. Summers are hot and humid, with temperatures rising as high as 105°F (40°C), although the average ranges between 84-95°F (29-35°C). In winter, temperatures stay in the 70s (20s C), occasionally dipping into the 60s (15-20°C). The following are the average daily maximum and minimum temperatures for Rio de Janeiro: January, 69-84°F (21-29°C); February-March, 72-85°F (22-29°C); April, 69-80°F (21-27°C); May-October, 63-77°F (17-25°C); November, 68-79°F (20-26°C); December, 71-82°F (22-28°C). Festivals and Seasonal Events Carnival (the four days preceding Ash Wednesday) is the biggest party of the year, featuring dancing and singing in the streets, locals donning wild costumes, splashy floats in parades carrying samba dancers and musicians, and posh balls. Tiradentes Day (April 21) is a national holiday in honor of the father of the 18th-century Brazilian independence movement, Joaquim José da Silva Xavier, known as Tiradentes (tooth puller) because he was a dentist. On this date, Tiradentes was executed for treason by the Portuguese crown. Festas Juninas is a cycle of celebrations throughout the month of June honoring various saints. The festivals are particularly noteworthy in Paratí, in the state of Rio de Janeiro. October 12 is the official day of Brazil's patron saint, Nossa Senhora de Aparecida, and it's also Children's Day. New Year's Eve (Ano Novo) is celebrated all night on Copacabana Beach in Rio de Janeiro. Ritual music pulses as the priestesses of Brazil's African religious cult light candles and set up small shrines to Iemanjá, goddess of the sea. Dressed all in white, they set afloat boats carrying candles, white lilies, perfume, and other gifts; if the waves take a boat out to sea, the sender's wishes for the year will come true.