A marvelous tour through the northern part of Chilean Patagonia. The name Patagonia conjures up images of wide open spaces and unexplored territories. As well it should, Patagonia is remote and wild country at the end of the world. The Southern Highway or Carratera Austral was initiated in 1976 by then president Augusto Pinochet and is also referred to as the Pinochet Highway. The road in most parts is a single lane gravel road and is the life line connecting Chilean Patagonia with the rest of the world. The first piece to open was part of the northern section in 1983 linking Coyhaique to the rest of southern Chile.

Coyhaique is the largest city for hundreds of miles in any direction and has all the amenities. Lush rain forest, hanging glaciers, and dramatic waterfalls define this region. The southern section was finished in 1988. Spur roads to the east and west have been opening sporadically since 1988 with several still under construction. Also still under construction is the main highway at its southern terminus with new segments opening every year. The road will eventually reach the tiny hamlet of Villa O'Higgins. It's quite exciting to be one of the first cars to travel into these newly opened sections.

The road is an engineering feat famous in all of South America. The scenery here is like nowhere else on earth. Mountains, glaciers, forests, rivers, and lakes reveal themselves around every curve. Enjoy days of breathtaking variety.

People make a living here by farming the land and sea. Commercial fishing and farm raising of salmon are very important industries. Patagonia is very sparsely populated but the people you see are warm and friendly, happy to pose for a picture while at work. A handful of archaeological sites give insight into the way of life of the indigenous people.

Summertime (Dec.-Mar.) temperatures are generally mild but rain can fall anytime. Patagonia is famous for its high winds. Microclimates are common as we weave amongst the Andes. If you don't like the weather where you are you don't have to wait long for a change!

 

Coyhaique- Coyhaique is the heart of Chilean Patagonia. With no other population centers within a reasonable distance Coyhaique is the economic and social center for the entire region. Nice hotels and wonderful restaurants are scattered throughout this city of 50,000. Modern banks and supermarkets offer a stark contrast to the remote natural environment. Because of its remote location and spectacular scenery Coyhaique has become a symbol of nature through all of Chile.

The Road- The Southern Highway itself is a single lane gravel road running north/south for about a thousand miles. This is the only way to access the region. Several spur roads are pushing into new territory as you read this. Every season guests are guaranteed to travel into virgin lands. In some towns people stare as they've seen so few vehicles on their streets! The state of the road can never be classified as good or bad because it is constantly changing with weather and traffic conditions. But since it is a vital link to the rest of the world for anyone living there, it is very well maintained.

Glaciers- With so many high mountains so close to the coast glaciers are common. Chile is one of two places in the world (Alaska) where glaciers actually reach sea level. A tour can be arranged to see the awe inspiring San Rafael Glacier as it calves into the Pacific ocean. From the road we'll see many glaciers including the impressive "hanging glacier".

Fly Fishing- This region is internationally famous for its wonderful trout fishing. Coyhaique is also the base of operations for Southern Latitudes fly fishing tours. People come from all over to try their luck in rivers like the Simpson, Ñireguao, or Baker. If you've never learned but would like to give it a try this is the place. A float trip down the Simpson River is a beautiful and relaxing way to enjoy the sport.

Volcanoes and Waterfalls- On part of the road we cross the blast zone from Hudson Volcanoes 1991 eruption. Four feet of coarse ash cover the land and road. Old fence tops poke through to the surface and the remains of collapsed houses can still be seen. The Baker River is the largest river entering the South Pacific ocean and its falls are something to behold. Standing on the edge of this two tier drop you feel as though the power of the river is trying to suck you in!

General Carrera Lake- The word "huge" does not adequately describe this lake. It's the second largest lake in South America and lies half in Chile half in Argentina. The Southern Highway follows its shores for several hours and you see only a fraction of the lake! But what's really impressive about this lake is the color. Fed by glacial streams it acts as a settling pond for the glacial sediment and what's left is an indescribable tone of blue. Add to that the contrast of the dry, grassy hillsides and rugged glaciers and you have a photographer's dream.

Cochrane and the Chacabuco Valley- A visit to Cochrane is a visit to the days of the "old west". This far-away town acts as a way station for local cowboys or "huasos" as they bring their animals to town. People come from as far as Argentina on horseback just to reach the road. Its not uncommon to see a horse tied up outside the bar next to a shiny four wheel drive truck. Nearby Chacabuco Valley is a scenic wonder and wildlife haven. The valley is as dry as any desert due to high mountains protecting it from the coast. The valley stretches all the way to Argentina and is loaded with guanacos. Similar to the llama they prance around the hillsides for miles. Condors, rheas, and flamingoes are also frequently seen here.

 

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T O R R E S   D E L   P A I N E

P A T A G O N I A

Torres del Paine (Southern Patagonia) is a land of extremes. Extremes in climate, extremes in landscape and extremes in distance. Torres del Paine National Park is certainly the highlight of Southern Patagonia.

The Paine massif made up of the "horns" and the spectacular "towers" is literally the definition of majestic. The hiking or trekking opportunities are nothing short of world class and wildlife abounds inside and outside of the park. Punta Arenas is the only real city in this part of Chile. Its an important shipping port due to its location at the tip of the continent and enjoys duty free status. All travel and commerce in this zone comes and goes through Punta Arenas. It's also the jumping off point for Tierra del Fuego.

A ferry ride takes us across the famous straits of Magellan to this island called "land of fire". The climate here is not only extreme but also unpredictable. Snow showers can happen any day of the year in the mountains of Torres del Paine and become common after April 15. Rain is common year round especially on the coast but summer (Dec.-Mar.) months are the driest. The summer days are long at 56° south latitude giving us plenty of daylight to explore this wonderous place.

 

The Park- Torres del Paine National Park is the crown jewel of the Chilean national parks system. In 1978 it was designated a Biosphere Reserve and is known internationally for its trekking and hiking or trekking opportunities. The Paine massif is the centerpiece of the park and is pictured in tourism publications worldwide. Two day-hikes take us into the most impressive parts of the Paine massif; 1) The French Valley with its incredible views of the "horns" and several glaciers, and 2) Valle Ascencio, an emotional experience when one first sees "the towers of Paine". Two ferry rides across glacial lakes bring us to various hiking or trekking trails, one to the foot of the massive Grey Glacier. Camping and overnight stays at remote "refugios" are options for those with a strong spirit of adventure. The park is equipped with several deluxe hotels in places of breathtaking beauty. If you're not a hiker the park has a well-developed road system plus the ferryboats. Guanacos, (like llamas), fox, rheas, and flamingoes are commonly seen inside and outside the park. While spotting a puma is more difficult due to their shy nature.

Punta Arenas- This is an important city economically in Chile. It's a major port because of its location and is the only place of consequence in Chile with any oil. Refineries dot the coastline. Delicious seafood restaurants are spread throughout the city along with several luxury hotels. Great views of the Straits of Magellan and Tierra del Fuego are found all around the city. Punta Arenas is also a duty free port. Shopping anyone!? A huge mall is jammed with tax-free shops.

Tierra del Fuego- A terrific day trip or overnight from Punta Arenas. A two-hour ferry ride crosses the Straits of Magellan and leaves us in the town of Porvenir. The largest ranches or "estancias" in the world are located on the island. These are mostly sheep ranches and we'll have the opportunity to see them in operation.

Penguin Colonies- There are two colonies near Punta Arenas the most interesting is a short ferry ride from the city. See thousands of penguins close-up and nesting. The best place aside from Antarctica to photograph penguins.